This is a thoroughly modern and understated example of the Chronometre Souverain* in platinum. The 40mm case is paired with an attractive silvered dial with embossed Arabic indices, a detail that was on the brand's catalogue only briefly. The marine chronometer style reserve indicator registers 56 hours of reserve from the twin barrels of the manual wind calibre 1304. The movement, fashioned from 18k rose gold, is visible through the display caseback. The watch, which was first retailed in 2014, is accompanied by its full set of box and paperwork and includes a complimentary service with F. P. Journe.
The Chronomètre Souverain was launched in 2005, winning the 'Men’s Watch' prize at the year's Grand Prix d’Horlogerie of Geneva. The watch was produced in 38mm and 40mm sizes, with the former size leaving the catalogue in 2015.
This Chronomètre Souverain is an early example from the first series of 1,000 watches produced. It bears several details that mark it as such. While originally the line was offered with printed indices and a guilloché dial, the Chronomètre Souverain’s most recognisable current iteration features applied indices. This piece features a dial with embossed numerals, that was only offered for a short period. The style was discontinued in place of applied numerals.
This example, that first retailed in 2014, wears the more modern, 40mm platinum case that is just 8.5mm thick. It’s three parts are marked by the rounded bezel and caseback that protrude slightly beyond the midcase. All parts are evenly high polished. The flat crown features the rope motif that is the brand’s signature. The lugs are short and curve down dramatically, reducing the overall footprint on the wrist. The caseback, secured by the six holt head screws, features details such as the brand mark and motto, product line, precious metal hallmark, and the serial number, all deeply engraved.
The white metal of the case is paired with the silvered dial – this combination makes for a distinctly understated take on the Chronomètre Souverain aesthetic. While earlier variants featured a Clous de Paris patterned centre, this represents a more pared-back aesthetic that was an evolution of the line. The embossed numerals, rising marginally from the dial surface, are mirror-polished by a diamond tool. It is a subtle and delicate detail. Around it runs a chemin de fer chapter of minutes. At 3 o’clock is the marine chronometer-style indicator that registers 56 hours since the movement was fully wound. Between 7 and 8 o’clock is the sunken subsidiary seconds register that mirrors the dial layout. Biomorphic hands indicate the hours, minutes as well as the power reserve. The seconds indicator is a simple pointer with a prominent counterweight.
The manual winding calibre 1304, visible through the sapphire of the exhibition caseback, is made from 18k rose gold. The view is dominated by the twin mainspring barrels, arranged vertically. They work together to provide a consistent delivery of power over the 56 hours of reserve. The balance is adjusted in six positions, one more than chronometric standards require. The free-sprung architecture of the balance makes it resistant to shocks. In between the bridges, that feature Côtes de Genève that lines up perfectly and anglage, the drive train is concealed by a plate that wears radial finishing with the “Chronomètre Souverain” engraved on it. The baseplate features beautiful perlage. On the bridge straddling the barrels are engraved details such as the brand mark and motto, as well as its jewel count and the precious metal the movement is crafted from.
The watch comes on an alligator-style grained black leather strap with curved ends and is secured by a signed, platinum pin buckle. It comes with guarantee and instruction paperwork, as well as its set of outer and inner boxes.
This example of the Chronomètre Souverain is at once modern and understated. It’s embossed chapter of hours represents a very specific era for the line. As such, it is an exceedingly collectible iteration of the well-loved aesthetic.
If sold within the United Kingdom, this F. P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain will be subject to 20% VAT
Closer look
Brand: | F. P. Journe |
Model: | Chronomètre Souverain |
Movement: | manual-winding calibre 1304 |
Functions: | time-only (hours, minutes, subsidiary-seconds) |
Features: | white gold dial, embossed numerals, rhodium plated steel hands, power reserve indicator, display back |
Case material: | platinum |
Case diameter: | 40mm |
Case thickness: |
8.5mm |
Lug-to-lug: | 48mm |
Crystal: | sapphire front & back |
Strap: | from our own collection, F. P. Journe black alligator strap, F. P. Journe platinum pin buckle |
Lug width: | 20 x 19mm (curved) |
Year: | 2014 |
Accompanying materials: | F. P. Journe outer box and inner wooden box, Certificate of Authenticity & Warranty card (stamped & dated), Care & instruction booklet, F. P. Journe polishing cloth |
Condition
This F. P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain is in good overall condition. The case and lugs show superficial marks and scratches throughout, though on the very surface of the material. The embossed dial, hands, and movement are free from any signs of imperfections and display natural signs of age. The hallmarks on the caseback and buckle are crisp and well defined.
Warranty
The watch is offered with a complimentary service by F. P. Journe. It also comes with a lifetime guarantee of authenticity from A Collected Man.